($74): As the table of guests sipped this sweet wine with a cheese course they fell silent.  Animated conversation drew to a halt — all that was heard was “ah” or “wow, this is good!”  Sweet wines in general, and Sauternes in particular, are an under-appreciated category.  The 2002 Climens, one of the stars of Barsac, an appellation that is included in the broader Sauternes appellation, has developed gorgeous layered flavors of honey and dried fruits.  It expands in the glass. Its racy invigorating acidity, not its sweetness, is what makes it such a joy to drink — your palate never tires of it.  Perfectly balanced, neither cloying nor syrupy, it’s a treat with cheese or as dessert.  A half-bottle will serve 4 to 6 people easily.
96 Michael Apstein Jul 12, 2016