($225): It’s worth repeating: Will Berliner, winemaker and owner of Cloudburst, his tiny estate in Western Australia’s Margaret River, turns out consistently superb Chardonnay, in addition to his stellar Cabernet Sauvignon, despite his lack of formal winemaking training. There’s a Burgundian Grand Cru sensibility about this 2013 Chardonnay: Engaging toastiness that is replaced by minerality and fruitiness as it sits in the glass and blossoms. It reveals itself slowly, forcing you to think about the wine. It packs enormous flavor without a trace of heaviness. Fresh and energetic, it will make you revisit your opinion of “Australian Chardonnay.”
96 Michael Apstein Jul 5, 2016