($19): One of the advantages of an impossible to pronounce DOC, such as Cacc’e Mmitte di Lucera (very roughly, ca-tch-y mint-y di lu-chair-a) is that the wines are underpriced for what they deliver because consumers are afraid — or can’t — order them. It’s worth learning a little Pugliese dialect because this wine is a great buy. The DOC itself is tiny, smaller than New York’s Central Park, with only five producers. Longo describes the DOC as “like a garden.” And judging by this wine, he’s a careful gardener with a green thumb. A blend mostly of Nero di Troia and Montepulciano di Abruzzo, the wine’s great floral character and zippy acidity is due to inclusion of a hefty (15%) amount of a white grape, Bambino Bianco. The tannins are suave, providing needed structure without being aggressive or intrusive. This mid-weight red would be perfect for pasta with a tomato-based fish sauce.
92 Michael Apstein May 10, 2016