($65, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): It’s worth repeating: 2014 is a great vintage for white Burgundies, without doubt the best since 2010 and in the same league as those wines.  In short, don’t miss them, including this modestly priced — for Grand Cru Burgundy — Chablis Vaudésir.  Domaine Christian Moreau produced a stellar line-up of Chablis in 2014 from their “simple” village wine to this shining example of what the region can produce in the right hands.  It combines the density of Vaudésir, which, along with Les Clos, is one of the top two best Grand Cru vineyards, with the stoniness and energy characteristic of Chablis.  It expands in the glass and on the palate.  Though engaging now, especially to savor with grilled fish, it has the requisite balance to develop beautifully with a decade of bottle age, befitting a Grand Cru.
95 Michael Apstein Apr 19, 2016