($300, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Under Erwan Faiveley’s leadership, Maison Faiveley has been transformed from a good négociant to an exceptional domaine that — like so many domaines today — also has a négociant business.  This Corton-Charlemagne, from the super 2014 vintage, comes from their just over 1.5 acres in Corton Charlemagne vineyards.  I’ve tasted it twice, once at a Faiveley trade tasting in New York and once in Burgundy during Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne in a line-up of thirty or so different Corton Charlemagne from the 2014 vintage.  In New York, it was sumptuous, balanced, and long — not overwrought.  It would have stood out even if it weren’t the only Grand Cru white in the tasting.  In Beaune, among its peers, it was even more impressive, standing out with an intensity, grace and excitement befitting a grand cru.  Every time I tasted what I thought might be a better young Corton Charlemagne, I’d return to the 2014 Faiveley as my benchmark check.  If I had $300 to spend on a bottle of wine, this would be my choice.
98 Michael Apstein Apr 5, 2016