($60): COS (the name comes from the initials of the three founders’ last names: Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti and Cirino Strano) is one of Sicily’s best and most innovative producers.  Cerasuolo di Vittoria, a red wine made from Frappato and Nero d’Avola, two grapes unique to Sicily, is that island’s only wine awarded DOCG status, Italy’s highest ranking, by the Italian government.  Delle Fontane is the name of their home estate and distinguishes this Cerasuolo from their other, less expensive, bottling.  The question is whether the wine is worth the time unraveling the label.  In a word, yes.  There’s freshness and liveliness that shows that talented producers can harvest grapes than retain acidity even though Sicily is generally hot.  With that lively character comes firmness without astringency.  This is a graceful wine, filled with fruit, but framed with structure so it’s not sweet.  Indeed, there’s a touch of alluring bitterness in the finish.
93 Michael Apstein Feb 9, 2016