($66, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Wines from Gevrey-Chambertin, one of the most recognizable and prestigious villages in Burgundy, are always pricey. Négociants tell me that it is increasingly difficult for them to find good sources as more and more growers bottle their own production instead of selling it in bulk to négociants. Maison Joseph Drouhin, a négociant with a deservedly superb reputation, clearly has no trouble finding good sources in Gevrey-Chambertin judging from this wine. It’s a remarkable village wine, combining bright dark fruit flavors with an alluring earthy component. Mild tannins and the hallmark Drouhin laciness complete the picture. Not a wine for extended aging, I would enjoy its considerable charm over the next several years with a simply prepared veal chop.
90 Michael Apstein Jan 5, 2016