($25, Old Bridge Cellars): Maison L’Envoyé brings together Evening Land founder Mark Tarlov and the very talented Burgundy guru, Becky Wasserman (according to their promotional materials, which also tell us that the grapes come from growers’ vineyards in Beaune, the Hautes-Côtes, and even premier cru Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Marconnets). This wonderfully high-value wine is a must-buy for consumers who want to introduce themselves to the virtues of red Burgundy, and likewise for Burgundy aficionados who want the real thing without spending a fortune. It captures the duality that Burgundy provides, a bright fruitiness — red in this case — and a savory quality. Mild tannins provide structure without intruding. This is a perfect wine for current consumption — what I call a “roast chicken” wine.
89 Michael Apstein Dec 29, 2015