($41, Langdon Shiverick Imports): The 2013 vintage lacks the reputation of the great ones, 2010 and 2012, in Chablis.  But consumers should not overlook it.  Talented producers, such as Samuel Billaud, make excellent wines even in what is often called “difficult” years.  The Billaud name is a legend in Chablis:  Domaine Billaud Simon, currently led by Bernard Billaud, has been one of the region’s top producers since its founding 200 years ago in 1815.  (Domaine Faiveley recently purchased Domain Billaud Simon.)  Samuel, Bernard’s nephew, made wine at his uncle’s domaine for two decades.  But, as is common in France in general and in Burgundy in particular, disagreements among family members emerge and individuals break away to start their own operations, which is what Samuel did in 2009.  He took his talents with him as evidence by this 2013 Mont de Milieu, one of the top Premier Crus in Chablis.  An engaging floral aspect gives way to a firm stoniness that awakes the palate.  A pure and clean wine, it would be perfect with simply poached or sautéed fish.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 8, 2015