($45, Langdon Shiverick Imports): Pernand-Vergelesses, located behind (to the west) of the Hill of Corton is slightly off the beaten track, despite laying claim to a sizeable portion of the Grand Cru vineyard, Corton Charlemagne. As a result, its wines can represent good value — we’re not talking inexpensive, this is Burgundy, after all. And normally, I’d scoff at a village Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc from a less than outstanding vintage for $45. Then I tasted it. It confirmed what I have always known — skillful importers rarely lead you astray. Langdon Shiverick is an importer who’s willing to overlook generalities and seek out excellent wines where you would not expect to find them. This is one of them, delivering firmness combined with richness and minerality. And exceptional length for a village wine. I’m sad to report — it’s a good buy.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 8, 2015