($80): Though I’ve recommended this wine before, my enthusiasm for it just keeps increasing after tasting it a few more times.  Mastroberardino is perhaps the finest producer in Campania (full disclosure, I’ve not tasted wines from every producer located in that region around Naples, but I’ve also not found any yet that consistently stand up to those of Mastroberardino.)  Taurasi, often referred to as the Barolo of the south of Italy, is the most revered area in Campania.  So, it’s not surprising when you combine a great producer and a great area that you get a truly great wine.  Still youthful, but approachable, it is a heavenly wine at this youthful stage.  Aromatic and powerful, it has astonishing elegance for its size.  It is truly an iron fist in a velvet glove.  It would be an excellent choice for hearty dishes this winter — just be sure to open and decant it for several hours before you serve it — but it will be even more enjoyable with another decade of cellaring.  Though not an inexpensive wine, it is underpriced for its quality.  You can be sure as more consumers discover the wines of Campania, the prices will rise as they have in Barolo and Brunello.
97 Michael Apstein Dec 1, 2015