($40, Rare Wine Company): Almost a decade ago, Oscar Alegre, export manager at Descendientes de J. Palacios, told me, referring to Bierzo, that “Nobody in Spain thinks quality wine comes from here.”   I do not know whether the thinking in Spain has changed, but I can assure you that very high quality, exciting wines come from Bierzo, especially those made by Descendientes de J. Palacios.  The wines impressed me then and still do.  Villa de Corullon is the label Palacios uses for wines blended from several vineyards they own — all planted with Mencia — in the village of Corullon.  Less accessible than Pétolas at this stage, it’s more minerally and tarry, but more sleek and elegant.  A subtle leafiness and spice just adds intrigue.  Although it shows plenty of black fruit character, this wine is not just about fruitiness, by a long shot.  Indeed, it’s the non-fruit elements that are captivating.  Despite its size, it has tremendous elegance.  But it’s best left in the cellar for a few years.  Enjoy the Pétolas while you wait.  You won’t suffer.
94 Michael Apstein Oct 6, 2015