($13, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Though its enticing cherry-red hue says rosé, this is not your standard innocuous one, but rather a rosé masquerading as a light red wine–and a delightful one at that.  Fresh and bright, with hints of wild strawberries, the barest hint of a tannic structure and whiff of bitterness in the finish remind you it was made from a light pressing of the Montepulciano grape.  Lively, vigorous and very fresh, it would be a great choice for sushi because, almost paradoxically, it can stand up to tuna without overwhelming more delicate fish.  And look at the price!
90 Michael Apstein Aug 25, 2015