($17, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Vibrancy is one of the surprising characteristics about wines from Sicily, a Mediterranean island where you’d think the heat would produce very ripe grapes lacking in acidity.  It’s certainly not the case with the wines from Donnafugata, one of island’s leading producers.  This white, from a blend of Catarratto and other indigenous varieties, is a perky example that delivers an aromatic mixture of minerals and citrus.  Clean and fresh, it’s zippy enough to hold up to seafood swimming in a rich tomato sauce.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 4, 2015