($14, Tri-Vin Imports): Portugal remains a vast, undiscovered country for table (non Port) wines. Casal Branco’s Falcoaria Clássico is just another example of the value to be found in that part of the Iberian Peninsula. Casal Branco, a vast 2,700 acre estate with 350 acres of vines, has been in the same family for over 200 years, so it is not exactly a newcomer to winemaking. Located in the DO of do Tejo (the area bordering the Tejo, a.k.a. Tagus River) not far from Lisbon, its vineyards are mostly planted to indigenous varieties, such as Castelão, Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional and Alicante Bouschet. For Falcoaria Clássico, a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon is added to those indigenous ones. It’s a burly robust red nicely suited for hearty beef or grilled lamb whose character comes into focus after a half hour in the glass. For drinking this summer, I’d be sure you serve it at true “cellar” temperature — you might need to put it in the frig for 20 minutes if it’s hot outside. It’s an excellent buy.
88 Michael Apstein Aug 4, 2015