($42, Wilson Daniels): In my experience, Kumeu River is the best New Zealand Chardonnay producer. Of course, I’ve not tasted every Chardonnay coming out of that country, but it’s hard for me to believe there’s a better overall producer of that varietal in New Zealand than Kumeu River. Year in and year out their lineup of Chardonnay is simply stunning. Each bottling is distinctive — and thoroughly captivating. Though Coddington vineyard faces north and gets maximum warmth, the 2012 Coddington Chardonnay has a taut Chablis-like verve with the barest hint of white pepper-like spice. Its laser-like focus is brilliant, while a lime-like finish amplifies its flavors.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 28, 2015