($120, Louis Latour USA): No one produces a better Corton Charlemagne consistently than Maison Louis Latour.  Latour, the largest owner of Corton Charlemagne, has ideally located plots on the hill of Corton.  The sheer extensiveness of their holdings means that even in “difficult” years Latour’s Corton Charlemagne is top-notch because they limit production by selecting only the very best grapes.  However, in a year like 2010 — which was superb for both reds and whites — Latour’s Corton Charlemagne is magnificent.  Tightly wound even now at four years of age, it takes time in the glass to open.  Indeed, its stature was far more apparent after sitting in the refrigerator overnight.  Very different from the other white Grand Crus (thankfully, in price as well as character), Latour’s Corton Charlemagne has appealing spice and citrus rind components atop its firm minerality.  The 2010 has enormous concentration complemented by breathtaking vigor.  Its lush and firm simultaneously.  Judging from my experience with their Corton Charlemagne, the 2010 will evolve gracefully over the next two decades.
97 Michael Apstein Jul 28, 2015