($22): The attention wines from small growers receive from the press, sommeliers and retailers can make us overlook wines from even the best négociants. That’s always a mistake and this wine is just another case in point. Maison Louis Latour, a top-notch Beaune-based négociant, owns no land in Pouilly-Vinzelles, an appellation neighboring Pouilly-Fuissé. Yet, year after year, they reliably bottle a zippy wine from that appellation. Less creamy with more citrus focus than Latour’s Pouilly-Fuissé, it’s a great bargain and a perfect introduction to this often overlooked appellation.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 14, 2015