($20): Arnaldo-Caprai, one of the top producers of Sagrantino, a sturdy red from Umbria, also makes this enticing white from Grechetto, a little known — at least in the U.S. — white grape. Mineraly and slightly creamy, it has good depth and a lovely firmness. Its hearty edginess makes it a good match for salmon, either smoked, grilled or in the form of gravalax.
90 Michael Apstein Jun 16, 2015