($95, L’Esprit du Vin): The most amazing thing about this wine is its availability.  Most red Burgundies from 2009 (a stellar year in my view) have long since disappeared from the retail market.  I have said it before, and it’s worth repeating since I’ve tasted scores more since their release, you can’t have too many 2009 red Burgundies in your cellar.  It was a ripe year that produced concentrated wines balanced by, in most cases, excellent structure.  Despite coming from relatively young vines — Eva Reh-Siddle, who runs the domaine, says they were planted in 1997 — this wine from Domaine Bertagna fits that overall description nicely.  Truly a wine from Chambolle, it has charm combined with a subtle tarriness and fine, firm tannins.  Beautifully balanced, there’s not a trace of over ripeness or heaviness.  Its grandeur and elegance become even more apparent in its long finish.  I’d cellar it for another decade.
94 Michael Apstein Jun 9, 2015