($40): This wine shows that Bordeaux need not be super expensive nor put in the cellar for a decade or two before pulling the cork.  Its slightly burnt ash character identifies it as a wine from Pessac-Léognan, the prestigious subregion of Graves.  Like fine Bordeaux, it’s not just about fruitiness, though it has plenty of that.  Firm, but polished tannins add structure and make it a better choice for grilled meat this summer than for sipping as an aperitif.   But there’s no rush to drink it because its balance and harmony suggests it will age gracefully and develop more nuances over the next five to ten years.
90 Michael Apstein Jun 9, 2015