($60, Palm Bay International): Gattinara, a tiny appellation of only about 250 acres in Piedmont lies north of Barolo and like its more esteemed neighbor, uses on the Nebbiolo grape exclusively.  Travaglini, who owns about 125 acres, or roughly half of the appellation and is the major producer, bottles an array of wines labeled Gattinara.  This one, the Riserva, comes from only their best vineyards and is produced only in the best years.  The breadth and depth of the 2009 shows the potential of this appellation.  With a firm structure and persistent power combined with floral aromatics, it’s easy to see why some critics dub Gattinara as “baby” Barolo.  It has the refinement you’d expect from great wine.  The tannins are clearly apparent, but not impenetrable.  That said, this still needs additional cellaring to allow its grandeur to show best.
93 Michael Apstein May 12, 2015