($24): At first glance, Sicily seems too hot to grow grapes for top quality wines.  Indeed, it’s the mountains there that supply the needed elevation to keep the grapes cool as they ripen and that explain why Sicily is home to some fabulous wines, such as this one.  Mount Etna — yes, the currently active volcano — doesn’t seem like a likely place for vines.  But in fact, great wines, both white, like this one, and reds are made from grapes grown on its slopes.  Carricante, a grape unique to Sicily, is one to watch.  This wine is mineraly, clean and crisp, with length and body.  Its acidity and verve will cut through the richest of seafood.  Try it this summer.
92 Michael Apstein May 12, 2015