($45, Palm Bay International): Add Fontanafredda’s Serralunga d’Alba to your list of 2010 Barolo wines for your cellar. In a decade you will not be disappointed. The power that follows the enormous initial floral impact is unexpected, startling and then captivating. It makes you wonder how something with such aromatic delicacy can pack such a punch. Deceptively easy to taste because of its alluring nature, the tannic kick reminds you it’s a young wine that will reward cellaring. But overall, it’s a true expression of power and elegance. Not a heavy powerhouse, there’s a Burgundian sensibility — flavor without weight — aspect to this stellar wine. Given the demand for 2010 Barolo, it’s a bargain.
94 Michael Apstein May 12, 2015