($45, Robert Katcher Selections): Though wine has been made in Maranges for centuries, the appellation is relatively new for Burgundy, having been established only in 1988.  Prior to that date, the wines were sold under the broad Côte de Beaune Villages umbrella.  The appellation marks the southern boundary of the Côte d’Or, adjacent to and south of Santenay.  Maranges’ relatively obscurity means that the prices of the wines does not yet reflect their quality, but that will change. Monnot is the sole owner of Clos de la Fussière (a monopole), a rarity in Burgundy where the vineyards usually are owned by scores of growers.  It is the prime portion of, and not to be confused with, the larger premier cru vineyard, Fussière, which explains its higher price compared to other wines from Maranges.  Monnot’s 2012 Clos de la Fussière has a winning combination of charming rusticity with the delicacy and purity characteristic of fine Burgundy.   Attractive ripeness and supple tannins allow for immediate consumption.  This easy-to-recommend wine would be an excellent choice for roast chicken and sautéed mushrooms.
91 Michael Apstein Apr 28, 2015