($150, Opici Imports): Monteverro, who just planted their first vines in 2004, is aiming to enter the elite three digit price club of the Super Tuscans, led by Ornellaia and Sassicaia.  They are located, like those two icons, in Maremma, though in a warmer area about 100 south of them.  The vineyards are very close to the sea, which imparts cooling influences, allowing the grapes to hold acidity, which translates into vibrancy in the wines.  Consistent with their seriousness, they hired Bordeaux expert, Michel Rolland, to consult.  The blend of the Monteverro, their flagship and hence the duplicative naming, is more similar to Ornellaia, because it contains Merlot, than Sassicaia, which is Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc exclusively.  Monteverro has evolved from Cabernet Sauvignon dominant (60%) with their first vintage (2008) to Cabernet France/Merlot dominant (55%) with the 2011.  They will likely tweak the blend as they gain experience with their vineyards and which varieties excel. With complexity rarely seen in a wine made from such young vines, the 2011 Monteverro is impressive.  This burly wine conveys a dense dark minerality, even a slight tarriness. An alluring spiciness comes through.  It’s plush but not overly polished, retaining character.  It finishes with a slight bitterness–always a good sign to me–and vibrancy, which is Tuscany speaking.  If drinking it now, open it hours in advance.  But really, find a place in your cellar for it and drink their Terra di Monteverro now.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 21, 2015