($30, HB Wine Merchants): Michel Chapoutier, the renowned Rhône producer, has a personal estate in the Languedoc, called Bila-Haut.  Latour de France (not to be confused with the bicycle race) is one of the four specific towns that have the potential to produce more distinctive wine and are allowed to append their names to the more encompassing Côtes du Rousssillon Villages appellation, much like the better villages in the Rhône can attach their names to the Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation. Think of it as a stepping-stone before promotion to a stand-alone appellation with more prestige. The name of the wine, Occultum Lapidem, is Latin for “hidden gem.”  While the label might take some explaining, what’s inside can be described quite simply–yummy, to use a highly technical word. Robust, but not out of place, Occultum Lapidem delivers exotic spice intertwined with .both red and black fruits.  It’s a delight to drink because, although big and burly, it’s still not flamboyant or overpowering.  Freshness and mild tannins lend appropriate support to the typical Mediterranean blend of Syrah (50%), Grenache (30%) and Carignan.  To be sure, it’s not an aperitif type wine.  It screams for meat from the grill.  For once, the name is correct–it’s a hidden gem.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 21, 2015