($28, Dreyfus Ashby & Co.): Chorey-les-Beaune, a small village just north of Beaune, is a sleeper location for value packed red Burgundy, such as this one. Lying just off the main Dijon Beaune road, Chorey, as it’s sometimes called, is off most everybody’s radar screen. With this 2012, Drouhin, one of the Burgundy’s top producers, has made a lacey fragrant wine whose savory notes make it good choice for roast chicken or salmon tonight. Light on its feet — this is not an opulent New World Pinot Noir — it is surprisingly full of flavor and has the hallmark Drouhin elegance.
88 Michael Apstein Apr 14, 2015