($15, Banfi): Valpolicella is often considered a not terribly substantial light red wine.  This wine erases that image.  Think of Bolla’s La Poiane as a Valpolicella on steroids.  The grapes come from the best area of Valpolicella (Classico) and have attained better ripeness (Superiore).  Additional muscle comes from fermenting the wine with left over grape skins of Amarone (Ripasso).  The result is a wine with freshness, depth and earthiness — a “not just fruit” character.  A hint of bitterness in the finish reinforces the idea that this is serious stuff.  And, it’s a bargain.  Buy it buy the case for the upcoming grilling season.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 7, 2015