($90): A tribute to her son, Warren, who died in 2006, this is a monumental Pinot Noir, in the best sense of the word. One whiff predicts its grandeur. What follows is a glorious explosion of flavors — smoky, fruity, earthy — that flow seamlessly one into another. A hefty wine, its silky, velvety texture reinforces its overall gracefulness. Unlike red Burgundy, which I characterize as “flavor without weight,” Merry Edwards’ Angel Wing definitely has weight, but it’s not in what I call the “Pinot Syrah” category. Fresh and clean, its brightness makes it a joy to drink now. It’s a worthy tribute.
96 Michael Apstein Mar 3, 2015