($28, Wilson Daniels): It takes a bit of work to sort out the label, but it’s worth it.  Starting at the top, Elvio Cogno is a red-hot producer in Piedmont best known for their Barolo and Barbaresco.  Nascetta is an obscure variety from the Langhe thought by some to be related to Vermentino, which they’ve had in their Novello vineyard for a couple of decades.  Anas-Cëtta is an invented name Cogno used before the wine received DOC status because using a varietal name for a non-DOC was prohibited.  After it received DOC status in 2010, Cogno decided to keep the name for sentimental reasons.  It’s a clean crisp white with a stony and nutty character and bright acidity that’s a perfect foil for its mid-weight body.  A unique Piedmontese white, try the Anas-Cëtta the next time you’re dribbling a caper butter sauce over broiled swordfish.
92 Michael Apstein Feb 10, 2015