($15, Quintessential Wines): Puglia, the “heel” of Italy’s “boot,” is home to some amazing and well-priced wines. This one, and Vallone’s Vigna Flamino, are two that should not be missed because they offer incredible enjoyment at an affordable price. The Salice Salentino Riserva, made entirely from Negroamaro, is a hefty wine, but not overdone, with an alluring subtle bitterness in the finish. Supple tannins and good acidity provide needed structure and prevent jamminess that can mar many wines from sunny climes. It has unusual elegance for a wine of its size. Enjoyable now, but definitely not a before dinner sipping wine, its place is at the table to accompany a hearty wintertime meal.
90 Michael Apstein Feb 10, 2015