($26, Kysela Père et Fils): A blend of mostly (90%) Tempranillo and Merlot, this, like their Rioja, is a joint venture between the world-famous enologist, Michel Rolland, a Spanish wine entrepreneur, Javier Galarreta, and Bodegas Valtravieso, from whose 200 acres Rolland selected the grapes. Similar to the “R & G” Rioja, this Ribera del Duero is plush, polished and concentrated, without being overdone. It conveys an alluring minerality that is more apparent here than in the Rioja. By no means just fruity, the earthy mineral quality shines and distinguishes it from their Rioja, showing the different expression of Tempranillo in these two regions. If you’re one for analogies, their Rioja is like a fine Chianti Classico, while the Ribera del Duero speaks like a Brunello di Montalcino. Here’s another well-price Spanish gem. More steak, please.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 13, 2015