($55, Loubaton Imports): This producer’s Champagne was previously unknown to me.  That’s my loss and I now will try to make up for lost time.  Extra Brut Champagne is an extremely tough and expensive category to produce.  There can be no compromise on the quality of the grapes because the extremely low dosage means that there’s little sugar to cover up whatever flaws are present.  There’s no compromise with this gorgeous example.  Unusually full-bodied for a Blanc de Blancs, the elegance of Chardonnay is still clear and compelling.  A touch of yeastiness adds complexity without dominating.  Long and refined, this is a great way to celebrate the holidays or, frankly, to enhance broiled swordfish.  It delivers more than the price suggests.
95 Michael Apstein Dec 23, 2014