($33, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Though labeled, late harvest (“vendage tardive”), which would imply sweetness, this Gewürztraminer is not any sweeter than Zind-Humbrecht’s regular bottling. It’s just more concentrated, with a dash of botrytis-like richness and a racy vibrancy in the finish. A subtle and appealing bitterness in the finish reinforces the impression that this wine is not about sweetness, but rather concentration. It would be a fabulous option to accompany a cheese course. A half bottle will serve six people easily because of the wine’s concentration and richness, so it’s actually well priced.
94 Michael Apstein Nov 25, 2014