($16, Soilair Selections): Ruché, an obscure grape native to Piedmont, thrives and, dare I say, achieves greatness, in the DOCG zone of Castagnole Monferrato. A savory, almost truffle-like, nose draws you. And then, with a paradoxical lightweight sensibility, it delivers an alluring mixture of sweetness and firmness. The flavors dance on the palate. Firm, but not aggressive, tannins appear in the subtly bitter finish. It delivers far more complexity than you’d expect at the price. It would work with turkey or other fowl
91 Michael Apstein Nov 25, 2014