Jean-Paul Brun, Beaujolais Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2013

($16, Louis Dressner Selections): Yes, it’s the Beaujolais Nouveau time of the year, and yes, 95% of Beaujolais is red, but that’s all the more reason to draw peoples’ attention to this wonderful Chardonnay-based wine. Jean-Paul Brun under the label of Terres Dorées redefines (red) Beaujolais.  He also makes a masterful white version, entirely from Chardonnay, which actually does well in the granitic soil of the appellation.  This one has an appealing creamy stoniness and uplifting vibrancy.  It’s another fine choice for Thanksgiving for you last minute shoppers.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 25, 2014