($21, Henriot, Inc): Beaujolais gets a bad rap.  It’s partially deserved because of all of the slightly sweet and vapid swill labeled Beaujolais on the market.  But there are a few producers who are trying desperately — they must sometimes feel it’s like pushing a rock up a hill — to change the image with their wines from the cru, or named villages, such as Fleurie, of the region.  If more Beaujolais tasted like Villa Ponciago’s Fleurie, Beaujolais’ image would change rapidly.  It’s flowery and bright, not sweet and cloying.  It dances on the palate and refreshes it.  Chilling it for 30 minutes enhances it even more.  A good choice for Thanksgiving.
89 Michael Apstein Nov 4, 2014