($100, Kobrand): Les Folies de la Marquetterie bottle is not meant to replace or compete with Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne, which remains their Tête du Cuvée, or super-premium, Champagne.  Indeed, the blend of grapes in Les Folies de la Marquetterie leans heavily on Pinot Noir, whereas their Comtes de Champagne is made entirely from Chardonnay.  The grapes for it come from a single vineyard 10-acre parcel around the original château.  Taittinger ages a portion of it in oak barrels, then for five years on its lees, which along with the reliance on Pinot Noir, makes this a bigger, richer and rounder Champagne, almost giving the allusion of sweetness though the dosage is low, 9 grams, similar to the more steely Comtes de Champagne.  A great aperitif, its richness makes it a good choice at the table as well.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 4, 2014