($200): I first tasted Cloudburst wines last year and was enthralled by them.  I figured owner/winemaker Will Berliner either had beginner’s luck or was a visionary.  Now that I’ve tasted another vintage of his Chardonnay, Cabernet and, now, Malbec, it is clear that his talents are not explained by beginner’s luck.  The 2012 Chardonnay is dazzling — not because of its power, though it has that — but because of its sleek racy profile.  Its power sneaks up on you.  A subtle refinement and extraordinary length makes it dazzles.  Not a muscular wine, there’s a warming touch of brioche — perhaps a hint of hazelnut — and balancing vivacious acidity that keeps it fresh.  What fascinates me is its graceful persistence.  It’s not flamboyant, but one sip tells you it’s a great wine.
96 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2014