($57, Wilson Daniels): Anne Claude Leflaive, who runs Domaine Leflaive, perhaps the most celebrated producer of white Burgundy, and her husband, Christian Jacques, purchased this domaine in 2008.  It’s remarkable to see how a woman who made her reputation making some of the world’s greatest wines from the Chardonnay grape excels with Cabernet Franc.  In a very un-French twist, the appellation, Anjou, is relegated to back label whereas Cabernet Franc is highlighted on the front.  The labeling may be unconventional, but the taste is Cabernet Franc at its best.  Fully ripe, it conveys the alluring hint of leafy essence that is the hallmark of Cabernet Franc.  This mid-weight wine delivers an intriguing herbal character without a trace of greenness.  The flavors and tannins caress the palate, they don’t bombard it.  The overall suaveness allows you to enjoy it now — perhaps with turkey at Thanksgiving — but its balance suggests further development with cellaring.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 26, 2014