($45, Wilson Daniels): Kumeu River has bottled this Chardonnay separately since 2006 because it believes it is unique.  Having recently tasted the entire line-up of Chardonnays, I agree.  Indeed, all its single-vineyard bottlings are different and show that the French don’t have a monopoly of the concept of terroir. The vineyard takes its name from the family that owns it–and reminds us that you don’t need to own the vineyard to make outstanding wine from it.  It’s a rich and opulent, but not overdone, Chardonnay that is all the more impressive because of its balance and vivacity.  Peachy notes are apparent in its persistent finish, but what’s truly enthralling is its vibrant and mouth-watering acidity that keeps it fresh.
94 Michael Apstein Jun 10, 2014