($85, Transatlantic Bubbles): Georges Laval makes, what’s known in the industry, as “grower” Champagne.  That is, he makes Champagne from grapes grown in his own vineyards.  That’s in contrast to the big houses that own relatively little land and buy grapes from growers throughout the Champagne region.  Laval, based in Cumières, a village granted premier cru status, uses equally proportions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from his 10 acres of vineyards there for this Brut Nature Champagne.  In the Brut Nature bottling, he uses very little dosage, which allows the purity of flavors of grapes and the land to shine.  This is both a powerful (Pinot Noir speaking) and refined (Chardonnay speaking) Champagne that seemingly goes on forever.  Sure, you can drink it to celebrate, but don’t forget it you can bring it to the table and drink it throughout a meal.
93 Michael Apstein May 13, 2014