($42): None of the 375 acres of vineyards in Chorey-lès-Beaune, a small village just north of Beaune (lès means near), are classified as premier cru because they lie on the flat land as opposed to the better situated sites on the slope. Nonetheless, wines from Chorey-lès-Beaune can be a terrific value, especially when they are from a top-notch producer, such as Tollot-Beaut. Although the 2009 Pièce du Chapitre is not the current release, it is still widely available on the retail market. Beautifully concentrated, befitting the 2009 vintage, Tollot-Beaut’s Chorey has an engaging hint of earthiness and great vibrancy. The flavors expand as it sits in the glass. Seductive now in part because of a glossy texture, it will continue to evolve, so there’s no rush. Given the direction of Burgundy prices, Tollot-Beaut’s Chorey-lès-Beaune is a bargain for what it delivers.
92 Michael Apstein May 13, 2014