($18, Louis Dressner Selections): Brun’s Beaujolais, bottled under the Terres Dorées label, redefine that appellation.  The vast majority of Beaujolais — I’m not speaking of Beaujolais-Village and certainly not the cru — are nothing more than alcoholic grape juice.  But Brun’s is real wine filled with satisfying mix of fruitiness and herbal/spicy elements.  Good concentration and weight allows it to hold up to a grilled hanger steak while barely perceptible tannins mean it’s a delight to drink now.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 1, 2014