($15, Gascon USA): Gascón’s Malbecs have gotten more interesting over the years. Years ago, when they first made their appearance on these shores, I dismissed them as big simple red wines. The current version, the 2012, is still big, but simplicity has been replaced by an intriguing floral character, subtle dark cherry-like notes and even an appealing hint of bitterness in the finish. Plush tannins remain, as does the bargain price. It’s an excellent choice for hearty fare.
88 Michael Apstein Mar 11, 2014