($120, Vinifera Imports): Flaccianello is the flagship wine from Fontodi, a superb producer located in the Conca d’Oro (the golden shell) or heart of the Chianti Classico region.  This pure Sangiovese beauty comes from their best grapes.  Giovanni Manetti says they look for the smallest bunches, usually found on the vines at the top of their vineyards, that provide a better ratio of skin to juice.  Although Flaccianello currently could be labeled as a Chianti Classico, when Fontodi first produced it in 1981, the regulations for Chianti prohibited a 100 percent-Sangiovese wine.  This marvelous wine shows the beauty of Sangiovese planted in the right place by conscientious producers.  It’s mineraly and deep, with underlying black fruit flavors playing a secondary role.  What’s perhaps most impressive is its silky satiny texture and its extraordinary finish.  It lingers in the mouth seemingly forever.  The tannins are polished, not intrusive, and give appropriate structure.  As glossy as it is now, I’d still prefer to put this in the cellar and let it evolve because it is great wine that I’m sure has even more to show.
97 Michael Apstein Feb 25, 2014