($21, Negociants USA): The cooling maritime influences from the Indian and Southern Oceans explain why Western Australian wines differ from those of South Australia, the country’s major wine producing state. The cooler growing season allows grapes more time to ripen and develop complex flavors resulting in wines with great refinement, as exemplified by Vasse Felix’s stunning 2012 Chardonnay. Vasse Felix, who early on recognized the uniqueness and potential of Western Australia for wine and is considered one of the region’s pioneer producers, is probably best known for their Cabernet Sauvignon. This Chardonnay shows they are not a one-horse show. It has it all, a touch of creaminess, subtle and restrained fruitiness, a hint of oak and great vibrancy. It’s a long and refined wine — at a bargain price for what it delivers.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 21, 2014