Maison Joseph Drouhin, Côte de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2011

($34, Dreyfus-Ashby): Côte de Beaune is an unusual appellation, not to be confused (though it often is) with Côte de Beaune-Villages or simply Beaune.  It is comprised of a few vineyards located above Beaune — but not in the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune — on the Montagne de Beaune.  Despite its obscurity, it’s an important appellation for Drouhin, which means it’s worth remembering.  Their Côte de Beaune is consistently excellent because it contains a substantial amount of declassified wine from their famed 1er cru Clos des Mouches vineyard and their other vineyards in Beaune.  The 2011 is more concentrated and has slightly darker — more black than red fruit — than the Chorey-lès-Beaune.  The structure is a bit more apparent at this stage, but there’s no hiding the Drouhin charm and elegance.  It’s an excellent buy.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 24, 2013