($17, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Passetoutgrain is a blend of Gamy and Pinot Noir.  When the vines are planted in the right place, as in Stèphane Magnien’s case, the wines can be delightful.  Magnien makes two different cuvées of a Bourgogne Passetougrain.  As the name of this one suggests, it is denser.  Spicy, fruity and pleasantly rustic, it’s perfect for hamburgers on the grill.  Remember it for next summer because it is delightful chilled.
88 Michael Apstein Dec 17, 2013